Topic: disc brake caliper questions... (Read 1163 times)

Tom! · « **on:** September 04, 2009, 02:11:01 AM »

How....
Why....
When...

Okay, so. If I have a disc, but need a caliper.... How would I know the one that I bought will work with my disc? Are they fairly universal? Or should I look out for a caliper that will work with a 2.5mm rotor?

I can't find too much information online about different calipers and what they can / cannot handle... maybe I am just looking in the wrong place though.

¿ · « **Reply #1 on:** September 04, 2009, 06:16:36 AM »

i typed in scooter caliper on ebay. look at the bolt on configuation, that would be the best way to tell. there's always a wider gap for the caliper to fit over the rotor, then all ya do is adjust the pucks.

Garett · « **Reply #2 on:** September 04, 2009, 09:59:09 AM »

I got a question about these.

Normally on a disc brake the are always slightly on so that they stay hot and burn up any water on them.

What kind of rolling resistance would this add? Or do you do it differently so that they are not grabbing slightly all the time?

Race Preppin' Mike · « **Reply #3 on:** September 04, 2009, 11:38:23 AM »

minimal.

Tom! · « **Reply #4 on:** September 04, 2009, 12:02:52 PM »

Hydraulic or Mechanical?

Oh yeah, and is there a size rotor you should look at based on the size of your wheel?

Like a proportional thing a rotor with "X" OD will work best on a wheel with "X" Rolling Space

Race Preppin' Mike · « **Reply #5 on:** September 04, 2009, 01:45:19 PM »

look for a rotor that you can mount to your wheel. the more surface area that you have with pad on rotor the better technically, the cooler the rotor stays the better. but in mopeds, it doesn't matter.
hydraulic.

Tom! · « **Reply #6 on:** September 04, 2009, 02:13:27 PM »

I have 2 rotors and 1 caliper, but no master cylinder / hose set up.

On a back wheel it will cause me to lose my pedals / freewheel entirely. But I am okay with that. Front wheel I haven't looked at yet.

Mike Pee · « **Reply #7 on:** September 04, 2009, 02:28:17 PM »

In considering this a bunch of times...I think it'd be easiest to do on 5 stars since they already have 5 big bolts going through them for the hub. Get longer bolts, spacers, lots of loctite...

Tom! · « **Reply #8 on:** September 04, 2009, 04:45:27 PM »

I'm thinking of a 3 bolt pattern drilled through the hub and crude machining of spacers to push the rotor far enough away from the wheel.one of the bandits has a similar set up on grimeca wheels for a ciao. But they're using a puch flywheel mig welded to the hub. Seems like a ton of excess weight to me.

Garett · « **Reply #9 on:** September 04, 2009, 06:20:49 PM »

Sounds like the front brake is where it is at... okay just do two rotors for the front brake!

Tom! · « **Reply #10 on:** September 04, 2009, 09:08:19 PM »

$366 + Shipping
Pricey, but it's all there for you... I'm not gonna do it, but it's available.

Bangers · « **Reply #11 on:** September 04, 2009, 10:57:45 PM »

Whoa there. Calipers and discs are designed to come as a set and won't always work with mixed parts. Figure out your donor and pull the parts as a set. This will make getting parts like the pads much much easier as you will have a year, make, and model. If it comes off a China scooter it will require some detective work for pads as they go with whatever supplier is cheaper that day. If you can't find the pads for under $20 including shipping, keep looking. Also consider the mounting method of your donor bike, keep it as simple as possible as the bracket will be under great stress.

cuperzacko · « **Reply #12 on:** September 05, 2009, 05:37:23 AM »

the biggest challenge will be mounting the rotor itself to the wheel in a very solid way. The next challenge will be mounting the caliper to the forks. You need to account for the force hard stopping will put on your weak fork tubes, so beware. A hard stop (or stoppie) on stock forks will eventually break something, be it the caliper bracket, or forks themselves. I believe paz kinda rigged something up, then someone warned him about this, then one day the forks ripped apart (the axle basically popped out of its holder (the downward U style). If you look at all the disk forks, except the expensive black hydro ebrs, there is a through axle with no possible way to escape. So yea, be careful, but enjoy the stopping!

Race Preppin' Mike · « **Reply #13 on:** September 05, 2009, 11:10:02 AM »

Tom, i would totally buy that set up, it's worth it, much less hassle and headache trying to make your own.
Shit, it took me forever to get my setup working ok and it's still not perfect, I have no idea where to get replacement pads, my frame had to be modified, yada yada.
My next set up will be factory fresh bolt on.

Mike Pee · « **Reply #14 on:** September 06, 2009, 08:47:50 PM »

Shit, the last thing I want is a disc front. Disc rear is where it's at.

Tom! · « **Reply #15 on:** September 06, 2009, 08:51:41 PM »

Quote from: mijunkin on September 06, 2009, 08:47:50 PM

Shit, the last thing I want is a disc front. Disc rear is where it's at.

thats what I'm saying.

cuperzacko · « **Reply #16 on:** September 06, 2009, 10:41:13 PM »

why? Drums will easily lock up the rear and stop you fine. Skids are easy enough in the rear. now getting the front to have that kind of stopping power...that requires a disk.

Tom! · « **Reply #17 on:** September 06, 2009, 11:15:16 PM »

ive never had a bike where i could lock up the brakes... but then again i've never put money into brakes.

i don't want to flip over the handle bars, and I know i would get wasted and flip over the handle bars with a front disc.

Mike Pee · « **Reply #18 on:** September 06, 2009, 11:35:50 PM »

What Tom said. Plus I've gone down in rain due to a too good front brake.

I can lock up the rear wheel on my magnum if I give it a death grip, but I want better.

Race Preppin' Mike · « **Reply #19 on:** September 07, 2009, 02:02:34 PM »

Rear disc is a waste of time, unless you already have a front disc, more than 70% of your stopping power is up front, that's where I want my good brake. It just takes getting use to not having to death grip your brake to stop.

cuperzacko · « **Reply #20 on:** September 09, 2009, 12:56:13 AM »

sounds like you guys need to bust out the dremel sanding wheel on your pads/drums, and some oil for your cables, and levers (on the brake hub). I've never bought any moped brake parts, but I pride myself on my ability to do stupid long skids. It took a few months of tinkering, but once you figure out how to get stopping power, its amazing!

So i guess before jumping on disks, get those drums working!

Daminh · « **Reply #21 on:** November 07, 2009, 11:10:39 AM »

Cuperzacko, thanks for the motivation to go over my brakes again. "stupid long skids" tells me mine need attention.
besides adjusting my cables and cleaning the rear drum because of head turning squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeal, i've obviously not given them the attention they need.
side note: bought a minibike mechanical disk setup from a 'yard for pennies, might not be enough effective swept area for my speed.

cuperzacko · « **Reply #22 on:** November 07, 2009, 11:46:49 PM »

brakes are easily overlooked but also easy to fix. Good cables, clean drums, and good pads. Get everything setup right and enjoy the rewards.

Holmes · « **Reply #23 on:** November 19, 2009, 09:37:33 AM »

I say 100% of the stopping power is on the front. Can't stop any faster than a nose wheelie.

But I won't try and put that to test on wet/ snowy pavement or during a turn! Rear brakes are good sometimes!

You will have an easier time mounting a caliper to the frame than to the fork. It is pretty easy to weld up a solid plate on the frame.

As for the disc size, get as big as you can fit without frame clearance issues. It will allow for better stopping and longer wear, due to the faster braking face speed. You can get some pretty small discs though, and depending on your use you may not need overkill.

Brett! · « **Reply #24 on:** December 14, 2009, 03:42:37 PM »

So I am a little late on this thread, but here is my low cost solution for adding hydrolic forks and disk breaks to your ped. I got a hydrolic fork, tipple tree, 10'' wheel and disk..... basically the entire frount end from a pit bike off of ebay. Next I delaced the disk hub from the 10" wheel and relaced it into the 16" stock rim that came with my Batavus. Then I chopped my steering tube to make the fork fit and repressed the bearing collar.... The whole front end conversion only cost 110$ Now I just need a engine to power this beast.

Brett! · « **Reply #25 on:** December 14, 2009, 03:43:40 PM »

sorry I'm still not great at posting photos

Brett! · « **Reply #26 on:** December 14, 2009, 03:45:52 PM »

and one more

Race Preppin' Mike · « **Reply #27 on:** December 14, 2009, 04:04:40 PM »

yup, you can do this to any bike

Crazy Harry · « **Reply #28 on:** July 20, 2010, 08:41:35 PM »

I WANT YOUR SHOP!!!!!

Redacted Justin · « **Reply #29 on:** July 20, 2010, 09:06:42 PM »

..You should see what it's full of now.

Dick Gozinya · « **Reply #30 on:** July 20, 2010, 11:59:34 PM »

Dead prostitutes?

Crazy Harry · « **Reply #31 on:** July 21, 2010, 01:30:56 AM »

OWNED

gym socks · « **Reply #32 on:** July 21, 2010, 09:20:28 AM »

Race Preppin' Mike · « **Reply #33 on:** July 21, 2010, 09:52:31 AM »

some of them are still alive...

Redacted Justin · « **Reply #34 on:** July 21, 2010, 11:51:05 AM »

Mike doesn't own a computer.. He just forced 30 asian teenagers to sit in his basement and memorize ones and zeros.

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Author Topic: disc brake caliper questions... (Read 1163 times)