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[Angry Bald Man]

K,

picked her up today.

I couldn't get the top off the Bing cut it was frozen solid with that black sticky tar shit.  I pried it out and am cleaning the shit out of ti now.

No unleaded gas? What the hell do I put in there?

Also, should I ditch the oil injection and pre-mix?

Spark plug gap?

Pre-mix 50:1?

I can't get it to fix-it cuz it won't fit in my car, when my folks move back from Germany I'll have a truck to use.

This thing is soc onfusing and wonderfully challenging. Yay!

Help!

[Mike Pee]

Ah, the ol' Puch leader gas sticker.  Ignore it.

I ditched the oil injection on mine.  Remove the guts of the pump and put it back on.  Solder over the intake and outlet on the pump, and the nipple on the intake.  Done.

Don't remember spark gap.

50:1 = good

[Lindar]

On unleaded gas

The owner's manual says the spark plug gap is .016 - .020 inches (.4 - .5 mm).

[Angry Bald Man]

Yay!

Youse guys are my heroes.

Soldering tonight, can't believe how much maple syrup was in that carb.

Tomorrow: De-rust tank, re-assemble for disappointment.

[Mike Pee]

Just remember to unscrew the pump from the engine and take out the guts before soldering over the openings.  It's like a gear and a cylinder.  And don't forget about the nipple on the intake or you'll have a nice big air leak.

If you want to get fancy about the whole thing you can remove the whole pump and make a steel plate to go over the opening where it was.  Oooooh.

[Angry Bald Man]

I'd thought about that and was all, why not just use a metal plate? My neighbor is a mchinist and my other buddy is a metal worker, niiiice. Hey, if they can weld my kids crib then they can make a plate or two. BAM!

I took out the little cylinder and the other piece, but one of those openings is MASSIVE, very hard to solder. hmmmm, waht to do what to do? I just need to plug it with something right?

HOly fuck! I have my work cut out for me. My transmission oil filler plug snapped (the little loop on top). Is that supposed to screw out? cuz it ain't screwing out and the little loop/handle snapped off. SHIT!

Also, Broke my clutch cable. It worked a couple of times, then wouldn't engage, then snap! Took it apart and tried pulling up by hand, ummmm nope.

I think there's way more going on with this thing than I thought there would be.

Cleaning the tank tomorrow with acid/alcohol/acid/water/alcohol etc... it's the bestest.

Yeah, definitely need to figure out a way to get this monkey to fix it day. It's in great shape, the odo works and claims only 473 miles, but she's definitely been sitting for a long, long , long time.

[Garett]

Filler plug is not threaded.  We used a peice of ruber hose with a bolt through it as a plug.

Mike was just telling me yesterday about how clutch cables break all the time for za50s.  Also that they take a lot more force to engage than an e50 so you need the cable and cannot do it by hand.

[Mike Pee]

Okay, ghetto za50 clutch cable fix time.  This has gotten me home multiple times.
Scenario A: Cutch cable breaks at the handlebars, but is still attached in the engine:
- It will be too short to use the cable in the normal clutch engagement hand lever.
- Turn your handlebars all the way to the right
- Wrap the broken cable tight around the right fork tube
- Hold the end with your hand, preferably gloved
- Turn the handlebar to your left while on the stand, and your clutch should engage
- Bam, your entire front end is now your clutch engagement system

Scenario B: Clutch cable breaks at the engine side
- It will be too short to use the cable in the normal clutch engagement hand lever.
- You need to unscrew the smallest brass-colored nut with the hole in it from the engine side, but don't take the larger silver-colored nut out
- You need to tie knot in the end of the cable through that nut hole
- Screw that nut back in where it came from
- Turn your handlebars all the way to the right
- Wrap the broken cable tight around the right fork tube
- Hold the end with your hand, preferably gloved
- Turn the handlebar to your left while on the stand, and your clutch should engage
- Bam, your entire front end is now your clutch engagement system

Now, those are emergency fixes to get you home, and a few rides beyond.  Ideally you get a new clutch cable.  All they are are open-ended throttle cables.  Put the side with the nub on it through that holey nut, screw that in, put the open end through the clutch engagement handle and you're back to stock.  Don't ever take that bigger silver long nut spacer thing out.  It's a bitch to get back in.  Just take the brass colored one out of the top of the silver colored one.  You'll see it when you look.

The oil filler screw is unneeded.  Those are old, brittle, and broke on both of my za50s.  All you need to do is fill the crankcase with oil through the small screw on the clutch side cover (side that says PUCH) until it dribbles out.  I covered the top hole with gorilla tape to keep shit from getting in.

ZA50s are a bitch, but you learn to live with them.

[napalm beth]

clean yr tank with toilet bowl cleaner!! it works, it'll eat up all that yummy rust!!

http://mopedstl.com/forum/index.php/topic,1255.0.html

[Angry Bald Man]

I might give this a shot...actually, I WILL give this a shot.

The muriatic/gas/acid/water/alcohol/gas deal took ages, but the results were great.

Don't ever take that bigger silver long nut spacer thing out.[/qoute]

oops. I got her back in though, no sweat, I guess I'm lukcy lke that.
It broke on the engine side, never thought of the knot, great idea!

Last night: removed oil tank, gas tank, oil tank mounts.

Removed intake for cleaning, soldered nipple.
Cleaned carb, discovered that one of the banjo washers is missing, also, since the carb slide was stuck, the top gasket got shredded, will ave to try to make another one out of...ummm, paper or something.. Got all th gunk out, nice and smooth now, just need replacements for the miing bits.

broke clutch cable.

cleaned a good portion of the rest of the bike.
Replaced spark plug, got fuel filter.

Today: try MIjunkin's clutch cbale fix...h, hey, will any kind of cable work as long as it fits?

Fix slippy grip.

Steal truck for fix it (if successful, it may be my last fix it for 6 months...)

What's the advantage of za50? I'm thinking of just dumping it for a nice and easy e50. Thoughts on that? It seems like it just has fewer parts you can bolt on, is more finicky and difficult. Outside of cool factor, what's the point?

[Mike Pee]

Za50s have waaay more torque than the e50s.  And supposedly the internal gearing in 2nd gear is better for top end than the e50s.  Basically, idental setups on an e50 and za50 will have the za50 win everytime.

Throttle cables work, but are thin.  I would try cutting the big end off a brake cable and using the little end for the engine side of the clutch cable.

[Angry Bald Man]

Za50s have waaay more torque than the e50s.  And supposedly the internal gearing in 2nd gear is better for top end than the e50s.  Basically, idental setups on an e50 and za50 will have the za50 win everytime.

Throttle cables work, but are thin.  I would try cutting the big end off a brake cable and using the little end for the engine side of the clutch cable.

I was gonna go to walmart and grab a brake cable and try that.

Stupid rain is preventing me from borrowing a truck for fix it day.  I tied a knot in the cable, very clever idea!

Yeah, vs e50 I figured that much. Hmmmm Here's where I have to decide between awesomeness and ease of use, (ease of use almost always wins since I have veery limited tinker time). I wish I could freeze my kids in carbonite for a week at a time once in a while.

Couldn't find Thw Works, so went with cheap Muriatic acid. YAy!

Quick tip: When your tank is done, empty the acid into your toilet and get a little extra cleaning done!

Mij, thanks a pile, seriously, what would I do if I lived somewhere in Arkansas?

[Mike Pee]

No problemo man.  Did the clutch cable handlebar trick work?  It'll get you riding.  I rode for like a week that way once before I fixed it.

If you can get a solid clutch cable all set, you'll be fine.  Eventually the engine will start to not shift into 2nd gear unless you pull the clutch engagement lever and you'll notice it getting slower and slower.  At that point you can either (cheapest option first): swap it for an e50, swap it for another za50, or have your za50 rebuilt. 

But for now, I'd fix the clutch cable, fill er up with some ATF and ride it like you stole it.

Oh, forgot to say...make sure to untie the cable from your forks, or everytime you turn left you're gonna get some ugly clutch engagement going on.  haha  And make sure that cable is tied up somewhere so it doesn't get caught in some chain/spokes/something nasty.

That is all.

[Angry Bald Man]

Sweet.

I'm gonna need to figure out that carb gasket and banjo washer first. I can't find anything at Ace that fits.
Any ideas?

Is the banjo washer metal or gasket material. I think I'm gonna go to Autozone for gasket paper stuff.

[Mike Pee]

The banjo washer is gasket material.  Just cutting one out would probably be easiest.  Well, not easy, but better than waiting for one you overpaid for somewhere online.

The float bowl gasket is a thicker gasket material too, but a big rubbe o-ring can work too.

[Angry Bald Man]

The o-ring is okay, it's the little gasket on the top of the carb.. I'll cut another, no biggie.

Jesus! there was what lookked like drywall sediment, CHUNKS of it in the bottom of the tank. It's shiny and new-looking now though.

I could make a living cleaning rusty tanks if there were enough of them out there and I really liked eating Ramen all day long.

So, should I be looking at a high comp head then? and should it be a 50 or something for larger? Keeping in mind I'll be swapping for an e50 probably eventually and kitting (probably not for a long time, also, kits should have their own head anyways right?)

And a Dellorto 19mm? That's kind of where I'm heading with it. I won't get a pipe until I switch it out because I don't want to screw with cutting etc to make it fit. (looking at the Tecno Boss because it seems well-liked and is cheap enough to replace when it eventually eats itself.)

[Dick Gozinya]

Where is a good place to get a dellorto 19mm(or other sizes) anyway?  Treats seems to have a pretty thin selection of carbs right now, at least on the dellorto side, anyway.  I'm planning on buying a 50cc cylinder and hi comp head and a proma gp or boss pipe in the very near future from benji and it would be nice to get a carb at the same time.  I have a 14mm bing that I can use but I'd like to upgrade everything at the same time.

[Mike Pee]

1977mopeds.com
dellortodirect.com

Or just do an ebay search.  You can find deals on there sometimes.  Watch out for the knock-off PHBGs though.

[Angry Bald Man]

Sorry, what the hell does PHGB mean? I can't find a def. anywhere?

Also, Spigot style right? And the one I'm looking at has oil injection, I thought I just got rid of that.
DS = Drive side?
BS = Bike side? Butthole side? Bearing side? ummmm?

IS this what I want?
http://www.dellortodirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=98&zenid=e5e1u21popaj04617ccmjidal5

I thought I had carbs kind of figured out (well, the basics), now I'm all like what? and I'm alls "huh?"

SHIT!

Also, pull choke? Is there any other kind? maybe auto choke or something, I want pull choke right?

[Angry Bald Man]

Adn this:

This I can get right now with no issues. A good place to start?

http://www.treatland.tv/Puch-50cc-Hi-compression-head-p/puch-hi-hi-comp-head-50cc-maxi.htm

[Mike Pee]

I have no idea what PHBG means.  It's just the way Dellorto differentiates their carb models:
PHBE
PHBG
PHBH
PHBL
PHM
PHVA
SHA
SI

You'll probably want spigot style, and a rubber cuppler to get it on an intake all nice and tight.

Choke options: pull and cable - you'll want pull unless you want to add a seperate lever on your bars for a cable choke

Hi-comp head is a good start.  Or you can mill your own head down.

[Angry Bald Man]

So, cable is like my Sachs, with a separrate lever. How does the choke work if I'm not doing it? Seems weird.

[Phil N.]

Dude you need to read all the shit in this link.  It will save you some time on typing.  Specifically check out the shit in Tech Support.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Main_Page

[Angry Bald Man]

I've been going through that, but it's limited on certain things.

[Phil N.]

Sometimes you have to do a little diggin' and other times you have to pick up a wrench and hope for the best.  I am often amazed at how much shit I miss in the Wiki. 

[Angry Bald Man]

Yeah, I dug  alittle deeper and found some stuff I was looking for last weekend.

I'm reassembling and going for it.

Fuck the rest, too much brain thinking. At this point, I've broken more than I've fixed. I'll worry about the badassness later.

Hi comp head on the way

[Angry Bald Man]

Niiiiice.

What's your setup?

And where did you get the tank ornament? I hear the ones with the helmets on are rare!

I've been toying with painting mine, but can't seem to get around removing 30-year-old paint, seems like it likes being there.

I know I've been VERY lucky with the peds I've gotten VERY lucky.

Did you keep the original handlebars? I was eyeing some clubmans, but not sure if I'd love the feel of them.

[Angry Bald Man]

Inner tubes TOTALLY rotted. Got new ones from Motorcycle shop.

Now, can I just disaaemle the front and rear wheel without special tips?

I no longer have my tire changing tools, recommendations? This sucks, I bought myself a big pile of work. YAY!

I know about puting baby powder on the rims, but beyond that....

MA was no help with the wiki.

[Angry Bald Man]

K, put it all back together, carb, tank etc...
Used your ghetto clutch engage and now it won'
t even turn over. Is this thing siezed all of a sudden?
I got it to spark before I bought it, there's oil dripping from the head. I'm lost.

[Angry Bald Man]

Not seized, but lots of chunky black in the cylinder, cleaned it out as best I could, has compression, but still, I can't get the clutch to turn over, should I disassemble the transmission side?

[Angry Bald Man]

Am kidless for several hours today, so this will be my fixit day.

Hey, just a tip. If you don't want to fuck with Puch fill plugs, then go to Walgreens and ask the pharmacist for a infant antibiotic syringe, the 5ml one, the nozzle fits PERFECTLY in the side screw. Takes many squirts, but there's no mess and no loss of precious ATF..ahaha

[Lindar]

Wait, you got the tank, carb, wheels, and everything else put back together in 15 minutes? That's fast ... like, super-humanly fast. If you've already got it all back together, then this probably doesn't matter, but Tom did make a really nice wheel-bearing-repacking article. The tire changing stuff in the wiki is ... weak. Really weak. There's an article that's been "under construction" for almost a year. On that page, there are two links to videos of unknown quality about changing the tire, and one of those links was broken until 5 minutes ago. The only tips I've heard if you don't have special tire tools are the baby powder, using soapy water (I thought soapy water worked better than baby powder), and using spoons/knives/screwdrivers instead of tire irons. I'm a total failure at tire changing though, so don't take my word for any of that -- I usually take mine to a local bike shop and avoid the process entirely.

The syringe is a good idea. I was using a flavor injector, but then I lost the needle part of it in a bottle of transmission fluid and I haven't been able to get it out. An infant syringe sounds like a definite improvement.

[Angry Bald Man]

Wait, you got the tank, carb, wheels, and everything else put back together in 15 minutes? That's fast ... like, super-humanly fast. If you've already got it all back together, then this probably doesn't matter, but Tom did make a really nice wheel-bearing-repacking article. The tire changing stuff in the wiki is ... weak. Really weak. There's an article that's been "under construction" for almost a year. On that page, there are two links to videos of unknown quality about changing the tire, and one of those links was broken until 5 minutes ago. The only tips I've heard if you don't have special tire tools are the baby powder, using soapy water (I thought soapy water worked better than baby powder), and using spoons/knives/screwdrivers instead of tire irons. I'm a total failure at tire changing though, so don't take my word for any of that -- I usually take mine to a local bike shop and avoid the process entirely.

The syringe is a good idea. I was using a flavor injector, but then I lost the needle part of it in a bottle of transmission fluid and I haven't been able to get it out. An infant syringe sounds like a definite improvement.

I don't know about fast, it has been a work in progress.

Got the engine to turn over, but notihng as of yet. So I'm working on the tires.

I'm gonna write something for the wiki when I'm all done with this. DAMN! I wish I had my tire changing tools for my M.Bike.

Ised bx end wrenches and my fingers, not too bad.

The tubes were disintegrating. I probably need new tires, but will manage until I get some.

Yeah, the baby meds thingy worked like a charm, having kids has it's benefits, haha.

Although this is frustrating and I've never had a bike this far apart, I'm really enjoying it.

The guys at the Honda shop looked at me like I was reterded when asking about the psobility of a clutch cable replacement jury-rig.

"Uhhhh all our cable are already pre-made."

"That's fine, you can' be bothered, whetever."

Still, they had tubes for $8, so I'm happy.

Wish I had the webcam out here, got the laptop in the garage, would be nice to take pics and chronicle this process for my great-great grandkids.

[Lindar]

I hate it when they look at you like you're nuts. One time I needed a brake cable, so I called a local motorcycle shop that was recommended to me. I asked if he had any universal brake cables and:
Me: Do you have any universal brake cables?
Him: What is it for?
Me: [stupidly, without thinking] A 1978 Puch Kromag
Him: [silence] [a small choked-back laugh] [incredulously] Where do you think you're going to find a brake cable for THAT?
Me: What? No, I don't need a Puch cable. I need a universal motorcycle brake cable. I had a Puch cable, and I cut it too short. I don't want to order a new one online, so I want to buy a universal one.
Him: But that won't work.
Me: Yes it will. I'll make it work. All I need is something longer than what I have now.
Him: [dubiously] Okay, well, come on by and I'll see what I've got.

He's actually a really nice guy, but I swear, I could FEEL him looking at me incredulously over the phone. These people just don't get the fact that it isn't usually about buying something that's supposed to work. It's about finding whatever is available and MAKING it work.

[Angry Bald Man]

TOTALLY agree.

I rigged more shit than I had to with my VW, and now it's like a new adventure in backyard engineering.

Just mounted the tires, soooooeasy.

I rode te SACHS with the empty wheel with me and right after fillingit up with air this fat bitch teenager and her douche friends were lurking behind me, with my helmet on I barely heard her say "We should jack tat guys ride."

So I gave her this "go right the fuck ahead and try it, turd!" Look and her boyfriend got all sheepish. Jesus, I was a bit of an asshole teenager, but THESE kids are getting fucking nuts! Soooo stupid.

Anyway. The bike shop guys are ok, yeah, but it's like, if it isn't a new bike or something big and "manly" then it's a joke to them.

THIS from guys who sell lawnmowers as well. HAhaha.



I got the same shittitude from the asshole a the DMV who ntold me I couldn't get a title without a title or cert. of origin.

Can't wait to pull up to the window where he sits on my newly plated ped , tap on the window, and throw him a bird.

wE'LL ALL be laughing when they ration gaso;line.